The Blue Dress of Maria di Cosimo

Research

September 17, 2003

Well, not so much research for now! Eventually, I'll need to look at other pictures, but the blue dress pics are sufficient for now. Pictures were taken from Deredere's costuming site http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Bluedress/Bluedress.html, and those were in turn taken from La Couturière Parisienne http://marquise.de/index.html.

(You can click on some of the pictures for a bigger version).

Here is the full picture again. The outfit is the regular deal.

Doublet worn open at the neck with partlet, double shoulder rolls with puffs, no waist treatment. All in blue silk, and seems pretty shiny too.

Striped sleeves, that look like gold trim on a sheer fabric, worn over white sleeves. Wrist ruffles. Striped forepart, that looks like trim applied to a white forepart.

Jewelry: the ubiquitous teardrop pearl earrings and short pearl necklace. Matching girdle belt and necklace. Ring (could be a wedding ring) on left hand.

In fact, the only unclear thing is what she's wearing on her head! Also, in her left hand, my first guess was that she was holding a pair of gloves, but there are two different colors, so I'm confused.

Some interesting things on that picture. First thing, I still can't make out a headdress. This is going to require some outside help, I'm afraid.

The very interesting detail is the ornaments on the neckline of the partlet. The partlet itself looks very sheer, but the collar looks much thicker. It probably needs to be, too, to hold all that embroidery. What I see are gold work all around the edges, pearls on the edge of the ruffle, pearls, gold thread and green embroidery on the ruffle and on the collar.

Also, I there is something in the center front of the opening. I wonder if it could be the neckline of an underchemise there.

We also get a good look at the necklace. It alternates pearls and gold settings, holding alternating red and green (or is it black?) jewels.

If you look at the bigger version of the picture, you can see that the fabric pulled through the shoulder rolls is striped white and gold, and very light and sheer.

This gives us a better look at the trim. See the Supplies page for a look at what I found.

On the skirt and bodice is a gold on black trim. On the forepart, it seems to be gold on white trim, on a white background. The white fabric even looks slightly wrinkled (like the blue is), as if the trim was much more stiff than the fabric and caused it to wrinkle around.

There's not much to say about this picture, except that we get a closer look at the girdle belt.

This one is interesting. We see that it's a sheer oversleeve over a white undersleeve. It might also be the smock sleeve showing through.

There is also this seam or joint in front. I don't know if they're pearls or gold loops along the seam. We also see some motifs on the gold parts, but what they are, I have no idea.

A look at the forepart. It could be white and gold trim on a sheer fabric, such as for the sleeves, but I think it's just trimmed regular silk. Besides, that second option is much easier.
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